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Sunday, 3 December 2017

Getting the most from electric chainsaws

Here I explore some of the issues for electric and low-powered chainsaws, including the sensitive question of bar length

The benefits of electric chainsaws

We have a shed full of petrol chainsaws, which are a marvellous technology: powerful, fast, reliable and able to work anywhere. No other household technology can deliver such a big energy return on energy invested: delivering large amounts of wood fuel energy from a small amount of fossil fuel.
Compared to petrol saws, electric chainsaws are much less powerful and much slower for bigger cuts. They are also more fragile: their motors can be quickly wrecked by labouring them. But if you treat them right, electric chainsaws are an economical and helpful asset for the frugal household. They are cheap to buy and run, and last a long time if used carefully. They start instantly and easily – a boon to the house without bush mechanic skills. In our household electric chainsaws use free surplus solar electricity from our PV panels (we only use them when it’s sunny) to produce wood energy. They make no smoke and can be used comfortably in a shed. They are relatively quiet and don’t fill our valley with motor noise. They require much less time on maintenance – the motors go for years needing only cleaning with compressed air. When used for the right jobs, with care and understanding, they’re great.

Cordless electric chainsaws

Battery-powered chainsaws are becoming prominent in the shops, but they look like a poor deal to me unless you’re doing a lot of something that really uses their cordless characteristics (perhaps like pruning trees in an old people’s home). Lithium batteries are remarkable energy carriers, but they are expensive, use a lot of energy and valuable materials to produce, and they only last a few years. I love lithium batteries for electric bikes, where their power is a good match for the job, and they help to take a whole car off the road. But I think cordless chainsaws are pushing the battery thing past its effective zone: only just enough power for a very small chainsaw, a short charge life, requiring frequent recharging or multiple batteries, expensive saws and expensive batteries, and expensive replacement in a few years. 
I service a family cordless chainsaw (a Stihl), and I'm very unimpressed: the chains are extra narrow to reduce cutting load, but have tiny teeth with a very short life. The bars are also small and light, and weak and short-lived. The cost (money and resources) of the saw, plus batteries, plus chains, bars and sprockets, promises to be far more than a larger saw. Really, the only plus is that they're quiet. 
If your goal is frugality and energy efficiency and your product is household firewood, I suspect far less cost and fossil fuel will be invested in using a petrol saw to cut wood into lengths in the forest, then recut back at the shed with a corded electric saw, than the embodied manufacturing energy in a cordless saw and batteries.

My experience with electric chainsaws

I’ve had good and bad experience with electric chainsaws, over 20+ years. My first was a Stihl E20, a marvellous 2kW machine made for professional use, comfortably pulling 3/8” chain on a 16” bar. It did a lot of work before its armature was cooked while a friend was using it. I was unable to get a replacement armature at the time, so it went into a sack in the shed. I was recently quoted $355 for an armature: seems excessive to me so I don’t plan to repair it currently. Stihl no longer sells the bigger electric saws in Australia.
I then bought a Stihl E140 (1400W), which has worked well for over 10 years and cut many tons of wood. It’s mostly used in the shed for firewood: re-cutting short poles of smaller diameter wood to stove length. It cuts clean wood, up on a saw horse, so chains stay sharp for surprisingly long and have long lives.
Here's my Stihl E140, on the saw horse where it's cut many tons of wood
I’m very careful to maintain a high motor speed while using this saw, being conscious of the many power tools I’ve seen that have had their motors burnt by being worked too hard and run too slow.
My E140 was supplied with a 14” bar running 3/8 low profile (LP) x 1.3mm gauge chain. This has always been obviously too much bar for the saw: the motor can’t pull that many teeth through wood without being overloaded.
I now have a Makita 1800w electric chainsaw, reviewed in the next post. It's good - I think Stihl has lost me as an electric saw customer. 
Makita and Stihl E140 side-by-side: basically the same layout

Who’s got the biggest bar?

To get the most from small saws, especially electric, we do need to talk about bar length.
Marketing of domestic chainsaws seems to focus on exploiting blokes’ macho anxieties, and I reckon most small chainsaws are sold with bars that are simply too long for them. It’s as if people are being told they’re getting more saw if the bar is long – but they’re not.
Box photo designed to plug in to bar-length anxiety disorder
With all chainsaws, you get the best out of them with the shortest bar that will do the job, and this is much more so with low powered saws like electric ones. Short bars are safer: their noses are less likely to contact another piece of wood behind the cut and cause kickback, if they do kickback they have less leverage over the operator’s arms, and they are simply safer by being more compact. Short bars make a saw lighter to carry, quicker to sharpen, and lubricate bar and chain better with a given amount of oil.
On top of all this, a short bar makes your saw more powerful (in effect). There’s less chain dragging through less bar groove and wasting power on friction. Most importantly, a short bar sets a maximum number of teeth that can cut wood at the same time, which has real advantages.
With all types of saw, a key issue is power per tooth. When a saw is cutting, the motor power must be divided amongst the teeth that are actually cutting wood. The closer together the teeth are, the more teeth bite at once in a given cut, and the less power each tooth can have.
Up to a point, the more power each tooth gets, the more efficient the whole sawing process is: the tooth can cut deeper, lift chips instead of dust, and the tooth will stay sharp longer because it isn’t "rubbing" (rubbing is when a saw tooth rubs dust off the surface instead of biting under and lifting chips or a shaving. It happens to any type of wood saw if it's too blunt or underpowered).
A tooth that is biting deeply and cutting good chips will produce a high volume of chips, that are more likely to fill the space between the saw teeth, potentially overloading the cut with sawdust. Wider tooth spaces and shorter cuts can remedy this.
Lots of low-powered saws are sold with 16” bars (including the Makita reviewed in my next post). This is (I find in practice) too long for them. These saws don’t have enough power to pull 16” of teeth cutting at full depth, and if you try, their motors will overload and bog down, risking motor damage. To avoid overload, the operator can hold the saw back and make the teeth rub, which is slow and inefficient and also blunts the saw. He (or she) may rock the saw so that fewer teeth are cutting at any one time – clumsy and ineffective. If the operator pulls the saw back and uses the outer half of the bar, it will reduce the number of teeth cutting. However this seriously risks kickback, as the spikes are not engaged in the wood and the tip of the bar is pushed into the back of the cut, with a lot of leverage over the operator’s arms. These issues of power and safety are easily addressed by using shorter bars.
If you really need a long bar on a low-powered saw because you can’t do your cut any other way, you can increase the power per tooth by reducing the number of teeth along the chain. One way to do this is using “skip tooth” chain, which has 2 (or sometimes 3) blank links between teeth, instead of the usual 1. This is often done in chainsaw milling, where long bars are often used cutting in a difficult orientation (teeth ripping across end grain). Another option, also used in chainsaw milling, is to take a normal chain and grind away most of the top plates of a proportion of the teeth, following the style of Granberg ripping chain (have a google) - this doesn't have to be just for milling. 
Photo of modified chain
If you’re using a long bar so you can cut wood on the ground while standing up, there are often better ways. Squatting and kneeling are both good for your body! And you will reduce your cutting into the ground – the reliable way to blunt your saw and wear your bar.

Getting a shorter bar

My advice (if it isn’t already obvious) is to use a short bar on an electric chainsaw: 12” is a good size for most. You may be able to ask for a short bar on purchase, but most saws come in a box without options, so you may need to change bar and chain yourself.
If you want to buy a bar for a saw, you need to first know the chain pitch: this is a measure of how big the teeth and links are. Most consumer electric saws have a pitch of 3/8” Low Profile (also called 3/8LP or 3/8P). 3/8” means that the average length of a link in the chain is 3/8 of an inch (measure the distance between one rivet and the second one on, and halve it). A saw with a pitch of 3/8” LP will have a drive sprocket (on the motor) of 3/8” LP, and the bar will also have a nose sprocket of 3/8” LP.
3/8” Low Profile is different from and not compatible with standard 3/8” saw chain. It is specially made for small saws. Stihl calls it “picco” chain. 3/8LP has largely superceded the old ¼” chain for small saws, because it has 1/3 fewer teeth. In line with the principle explained above: on a lower powered saw, you want fewer teeth so that they each have more power. I’ve noticed that 3/8” LP bars are often sold as 3/8” (without mention of low profile), which is not helpful. This can make buying online a bit risky, but I’ve never heard of a 12” 3/8” not-low-profile bar, so that helps.
The chainsaw bar and chain have another critical measure: the pitch. This is a measure of the thickness of the chain drive links: the hook-triangle shaped bits that run in the groove. If the sprocket on the chainsaw is 3/8” LP it can drive any gauge of 3/8” LP chain. However the bar and chain need to be the same gauge, or the chain will be too tight or too loose side-to-side. If you are getting a new bar for your chainsaw, you don’t need to use the same gauge as your old bar, but you need to ensure you get chains of the same gauge as the new bar.
Chain of a particular pitch and gauge can be bought either in ready-made loops, measured by the number of drive links, or you can buy a roll (usually 25 or 100 feet long) and make your own chains. Riveting chain into loops is relatively easy, and doesn’t need any bought tools if you have a little metalworking ability.
Cheap Chinese bars are okay, if you are willing to give them some attention before using them. The ones I’ve been trying on my electric saws seem to mostly be made for pole saws: 12” bars, taking 3/8” LP 1.3mm gauge chains. A number of these I’ve tried seem to have too wide a gauge of bar groove for the chains supplied with them (like some Baumr chainsaws – see my review here). This will probably work fine when new, but will become a problem after a while. Hammering a new bar to fit the chain gauge is a reasonable solution, which I’ve used sometimes. Cheap bars sometimes also need dressing: filing, grinding or linishing the bar rails (the surface the chain runs on around the edge) to make them square. Here's a video on how to hammer and dress an old bar:

Electric motors

A key thing about electric chainsaws is that they have electric motors (!), and that these are very different from petrol motors. What kills petrol chainsaw motors is (roughly speaking) going too fast or too dry (too little oil or too lean a fuel mixture). What kills electric motors is going too slow.
The faster an electric motor goes, the less power it draws. The slower it goes, the more current it draws and the more heat it generates in the motor.
When you first switch on an electric motor, it draws a huge current for a short time until it spins up. Next (before it gets a job to do) it uses minimum current when spinning at top speed with no load. Then, as the motor is loaded up and slows down, it draws more current and becomes more powerful. However if the motor is further loaded and slowed even more, the current increases but the output power decreases. When it’s bogged down, a high proportion of the electric energy stays in the motor as heat (instead of leaving as shaft power), and the copper windings heat up. If the copper windings get hot enough, their insulation will start to fail, and electricity can then find short circuit paths through the motor, making even more heat and “burning the motor out”. 
Brush motors, as used in mains powered chainsaws, drills, circular saws etc., often show this sort of winding failure as arcing around the brushes. This is usually a symptom of winding failure in the armature: the spinning rotor in the centre of the motor. Burnt armatures can’t generally be repaired, but they can often be replaced if reasonably priced. I recommend checking the price of a replacement armature when considering a new electric chainsaw (or other large brush-motor power tool).
Some electric chainsaws, including my Stihl E140, are made with a thermal cutout switch, to help protect the motor. This switch doesn’t sense the temperature of the motor windings, instead it is designed to heat internally in a similar way to the motor, and to switch off when the current has been high enough for long enough.

Electric chainsaw consumables

If you’re using an electric chainsaw to produce firewood, or some other repeating task (not just pruning the garden twice a year), it’s worth being conscious of what parts you can expect to consume over time.
Chains and sprockets are the main consumables of any chainsaw. These parts wear and are replaced together, like the chain and sprockets of a bicycle.
It’s most economical to rotate 2 or 3 chains together with one sprocket, then replace chains and sprocket when the chains are sharpened away. As most chainsaws are sold with a single chain and a new sprocket, it’s good to decide on what bar you intend to use soon after you get your saw, and get 2 or 3 chains to suit. This could be from the seller, or from another supplier, especially if you are chainging bars. I change chains and turn over my bar (to wear both edges evenly) every few sharpenings, swapping to the chain with the longest teeth.
I usually use chains until teeth start breaking off, because the teeth have been sharpened so far back. By the time they are this worn, they cut a narrower kerf and are more difficult to use.
The sprocket will take a long time to wear – you’ll have to wear out 2 or 3 chains first. However I like to have these things in stock well ahead of time: living out of town it saves a lot of cost and trouble to be well stocked.
The bar will last for a few sprockets – which is years of cutting. Unless they get bent by a big log falling on them, well maintained bars wear out by the groove becoming too shallow for the chain – so the drive links reach the bottom.
Electric chainsaws, used with care, will eventually wear out their motor brushes: the carbon blocks that conduct electricity into the spinning armature. Some brushes are made so that they stop working before they wear down to their springs and damage the commutator on the armature (the ring of copper bars on the rotor). Sometimes a power tool suddenly stops working, appears to be dead, but simply needs a pair of new brushes worth a few dollars.


Electric chainsaws can be a useful and economical part of a firewood cutting system. If you want a long and productive life from your electric chainsaw, keep them spinning fast and running cool and avoid frequent starts. As a key to working your saw within its capabilities, I recommend looking sceptically at the supplied bar length and considering how you can give the fragile electric motor an easy life with a short bar. Running 2 or 3 chains in rotation will reduce maintenance costs.

Thursday, 30 November 2017

Easy Sourdough Bread

This is a well-tried method for making cheap and easy bread for daily use. I’ve used this method (with variations) for decades, making some tons of bread (you could say our children are made of it).

Recipe in brief

This recipe makes 2 medium-sized loaves of bread, using a sourdough starter. It’s quick and easy, and suitable for baking several times a week.  


§  Flour:  1kg

§  Lukewarm water:  1litre

§  Sourdough starter (see below for method)

§  Optional:  1 tsp salt, 2 tbsp linseeds, sesame seeds 


§  Put flour (and salt) into a large mixing bowl.

§  Add water and sourdough starter to flour in bowl, using the water to wash all starter from the jar.

§  Stir with a strong wooden spoon until evenly mixed.

§  Refill the starter jar about half full with some of the mix from the bowl. Store the jar in the fridge for the next batch of bread. 

§  Add linseed to dough if preferred. 

§  Allow mixture to grow in a warmish place until obviously risen in the bowl (takes several hours).

§  Stir mixture in the bowl with wooden spoon.

§  Scoop dough into greased bread tins with spoon (scatter sesame seeds in tin before dough).

§  Use wet spoon or spatula to smooth loaf top (after scattering sesame seeds over dough).

§  Allow loaves to rise for approx 30min (use judgement – may need longer to show some rise) before baking approx 1hr in a moderate oven (~180C). Adjust time and temperature to your judgement. 

Notes on recipe


I prefer to grind fresh flour for each batch (usually organic wheat). This way the nutrients in the grain, especially oils in the wheatgerm, don’t have time to oxidise and go bad before you eat them. You can mix flours, perhaps adding white flour for lightness, or rye for heaviness and flavour. You can add all sorts of seeds and additives, if you really want to, but I only use linseed and sesame seed.
The humble starter jar, freshly re-filled

Sourdough starter

The starter is a small amount of wet dough kept in a jar (about 400 – 500ml jar size). The starter grows the yeasts and bacteria which rise and flavour the bread. With each batch of bread the jar is emptied into the bowl and then half filled again with fresh dough.
You can use some starter from a friend, or make your own. When I lose my starter (maybe it’s been thrown out by a keen fridge-cleaner, or I’ve forgotten to save some when baking) I usually find out when I want to bake bread, so I use a quick and easy method to start again. I simply make bread with the same proportions, but instead of using starter I put a teaspoon of dried yeast into the water before mixing the dough. After mixing the batch, I save a scant cupful of this normal yeast dough in a jar, and use this mixture as starter for the next batch. The new starter made from yeast can be slow to rise the next batch but will gain in strength with use.
After a couple of generations the starter will culture a suitable range of microbes and produce the complex and slightly sour flavours you want. You will learn how to manage your starter to keep it vigorous and get the flavour you want in your bread. More time and more warmth – for the starter jar or for the bowl of dough - makes more sour flavour. To manage this, the starter jar is kept in the fridge between batches to slow down the yeasts and bacteria living in it. This helps to avoid it going too sour and vinegary, and keeps it vigorous when mixed into the dough.
If you don’t plan to bake again for 4 days to a week, put the starter in the fridge straight after being put in the jar. However if you’re baking again tomorrow, leave it on the bench for an hour or 3 to grow – until you can see some bubbles growing.
Sourdough starter is a culture of yeasts and bacteria. The yeasts eat sugary parts of the flour, and produce carbon dioxide gas (which rises the bread) and alcohol. This is the same process as fermenting drinks. Bacteria then eat the alcohol and produce vinegar – just as happens to wine if air gets into the bottle. The longer you leave the mixture, and the warmer it is, the more dominant the bateria are and the more vinegary it gets. Giving the yeast fresh flour favours the yeasts, gives less alcohol food to the bacteria, and makes a sweeter dough. When the starter is cold in the fridge, all the organisms grow more slowly, so it takes longer to go sour. So if your dough is smelling too sour, and making bread which is too sour, then you are leaving the mixture too long, or your starter is staying too warm or getting too old before baking. If your bread is taking extra long to rise, but has no sour smell, then you are probably putting the starter in the fridge too soon, not giving the yeast population time to build up, so the dough needs more time for yeast to reproduce and grow.


This recipe uses 1:1 flour and water by weight (1000ml of water weighs 1000g). This is a pretty wet mix, too wet to knead, but quick and easy to mix with a spoon. 
You can change the proportion of flour to water as you like, which will significantly change the wetness of the finished bread. For pizza dough I use 650ml water per 1000g flour. This mix is kneadable, and is good for free-form loaves baked on a tray or on the floor of a masonry wood-fired oven. Alternatively you can use more water than 1:1, which will tend to make moist, flat-topped loaves in the tins. In general, I recommend using as wet a dough as you can manage for the type of loaf you are baking, for moist, longer-lasting loaves. 
Using your preferred proportions you can make any sized batch, but bigger batches may take a little longer to rise, as the starter needs longer to grow. I usually use 400g – 500g of flour per medium-sized loaf. If I’m making 5kg or more (usually for a pizza party) I might mix the starter with some flour and water the night before so I’ve got a bigger starter to grow into the big batch.
To make lots of bread, I mix multiple bowls with approx 1.5kg of flour each (3 loaves worth), and use as many bowls as I need (and can bake).

Rising dough

Most bread-making problems come from trying to bake un-risen dough. Getting the rising right requires getting a feel for the microscopic organisms which are doing the work of digesting and rising your dough. 
Before going into tins, the dough needs to be left in the bowl long enough to rise up and get a full, swollen look. This takes my dough 5 – 10 hours, depending on the temperature. To get to this stage the microbes in the starter must multiply and eat flour to make the carbon dioxide bubbles which rise the dough. The yeasts which do most of the work like to be warm, wet, and have plenty of fresh food.
If the dough is cold the yeasts will take much longer to rise the dough, but it does rise. Some bakers like the qualities of colder, slower-raised doughs (some people raise their dough in the fridge!). It’s just a matter of giving the dough enough time to rise, longer in cooler weather than warm. 
For baking in the evening in winter I mix the dough in the morning, using warm water, and try to find a warm place for it. In summer I might wait until lunchtime before mixing the dough, and use water from the cold tap.


Loaves should show some sign of rising in the tins before baking in a pre-heated oven. While in the oven, bread is tougher than cakes and is less likely to collapse from a shock or opened oven door. When done, the loaves will be browned (lightly or darkly), and give a hollow sound when patted on the bottom. Don’t try testing with a skewer (like a cake) as bread stays sticky until the loaves are cold. You will learn to get a feel for when bread is done.
Sprouted grain in the jar

Sprouted grain

Recently I’ve made sprouted grain an occasional part of my bread. This adds a range of nutrients and gives a good flavour and texture.
My current method is to take about 200g of wheat from the batch (before milling to flour) and sprout it instead of milling it to flour. I put the wheat in a jar, soak it in water for a few hours, then periodically rinse the wheat with fresh water. The wheat sprouts in the jar during the day.
An hour or so before I put the dough in the tins, I put the sprouted wheat in a blender with a little water, and blend it to a paste which I then mix into the dough. The dough takes a little longer to rise after this, so I might wait 40 – 50 minutes after putting in tins before baking.

Fruit bread

Sometimes I make fruit bread – with dried fruit and spices – as a treat or for a local cafĂ©. For this I use something like the following recipe:

§  Sourdough bread dough with 50% stoneground + 50% white flour

§  About 500g flour per loaf (a bit bigger than normal loaves)

§  About 1 ½ cups of mixed dried fruit per loaf

§  Spices mixed with the fruit before adding: dried ginger, cinnamon

The bread is made as a normal 1:1 (flour to water) mix, and raised during the day without the dried fruit. Fruit is added when mixing the dough just before placing into the baking tins.
I suspect that something in our dried fruit (perhaps some sulphur preservative) inhibits the yeast, because mixing in the fruit seems to really slow down the yeast. It can take up to an hour to rise the loaves before baking. As normal, watch the rising bread and bake when ready.

Sunday, 19 November 2017

Huztl Farmertec 036 chainsaw kit review

The Huztl 036 after 10 hours hard work (with home-shortened bar)
We recently made an 036 chainsaw from a Huztl/Farmertec kit of non-genuine parts. It was fun and educational, and so far the saw is working well. Overall I think these kits are a great product for someone who wants to develop their mechanical skills and get a good chainsaw, at a low cost, that they know how to repair.

Choosing a saw

Recently, I was looking for a smaller chainsaw to use in thinning the forest on my in-laws’ place at Stanthorpe. 100 years of neglect has produced a forest which is dangerously overcrowded, mostly with black cypress, but also with small eucalypts, amongst the well-spaced old eucalypts. In its current form, the forest is fully set up for uncontrollable, crowning wildfires that would kill many of the old trees. Lots of it is now too thick to safely or productively carry a controlled fire, and it appears that manual thinning is necessary to produce a forest structure which can carry a cool fire, preserve the old trees and achieve maximum restoration of  the historic Aboriginal woodland.
The worst sort of cypress thicket, ready to burn to the canopy - or be thinned
When thinning this forest, most cutting is the small (mostly up to 100mm diameter) cypresses, which cut easily with smaller saws like a Stihl 025 or 026. However the stringybarks and the sandy country are very hard on chains and bars, especially the dead stems with very strong, dry, bark fibres and sand in and under the bark from ants. 
I find that bigger chain pitches work better in dirty wood: somehow the bigger teeth seem to get under the dirt and keep cutting even if a little blunt. A bigger chain and a stronger motor also makes it quick to prune the cypress branches, chopping the smaller branches off without having to stop and saw through. A Stihl 036 (62cc) with a short bar was looking attractive: only slightly heavier than an 026, but carrying 3/8” chain and a stronger engine which can work lazier and last longer. The 036 has some other desirable characteristics as well.

Repairable chainsaws

If you want a saw that can do a lot of work and last a long time, and you want to do your own mechanics, it’s important to know that some saws are more repairable and durable than others.
Some brands of saw are easier to get parts for, as well as being good quality. In Australia, Stihls are clearly the easiest to get parts for, including non-genuine parts. Husqvarna would be the second easiest, and appears to be Stihl’s main competitor for quality. In Australia, Stihl has a near-monopoly in chainsaws, with other makes being pretty unusual, with the exception of consumer saws in hardware shops, which tend not to have much spare parts availability or range of sizes, as well as most being of poor quality. My experience has been mostly in Stihl, so I prefer to stick with them.
Stihl chainsaws come in 2 distinct qualities, which are very different in repairability.
The older design type of saws, often described as “professional” saws, have a metal chassis which forms the structure of the saw. It comes in 2 cast magnesium halves with a vertical joint, sealed with a gasket, forming the oil tank and the crankcase, and having moulded flanges to carry the external parts of the saw. The cylinder bolts on top of this crankcase and is easily removed or replaced, without necessarily dismantling much of the saw. A worn or damaged piston and/or cylinder can be quickly and cheaply replaced. These saws are highly repairable and, unless they have serious accidents, can have almost indefinite life expectancies. When I first bought Stihl chainsaws, this was the only type of saw they sold. However it seems that market pressure pushed Stihl to produce another line of cheaper, less repairable saws for less intense use. The professional saws are still made and sold, at significantly higher price.
This is a typical metal chassis from a Stihl professional saw (in this case a Stihl 034), viewed from the flywheel side (see tapered crankshaft with keyway). Oil tank is on left, piston is on top (cylinder is removed). 
The same 034 from clutch side, bar studs on right. This saw is old and in poor condition, but quite repairable with non-genuine parts. Worst damage is corrosion around clutch, perhaps from corrosive palm tree sawdust.
The newer “consumer” design of Stihl has a plastic body that wraps around a more self-contained metal engine. The cylinder and the top half of the crankcase are a single metal barrel, and a metal pan is bolted on the bottom to close the crankcase. Removal or replacement of the cylinder involves a major dismantling of the saw, to extract the motor from within the plastic body.
This is the type of engine in "consumer" saws, which is bolted into a plastic body (I think this is for a Stihl 029)

The 2 different types of Stihl chainsaw can be generally identified by their model numbers, using a sort of Stihl numerology. In the old model numbers starting with a zero (mostly from the 1990s, when the modern designs started), the even numbers (e.g. 026, 036, 046) were the professional saws. The later odd numbered models (e.g. 017, 025, 039) were the plastic bodied consumer saws. With the new model numbers starting with “MS” (when for example the 026 was renamed the MS260), most of the professional saws now have an even number as the middle digit (e.g. MS381, MS461) and the consumer saws have an odd digit in the middle (e.g. MS170, MS250). This is not quite a perfect system, e.g. MS180 is a consumer saw.
For me, wanting a saw with an engine about 60cc, there are 3 Stihl options: the old 036 professional saw (no longer sold new, but available second hand or as a non-genuine kit), the MS361 which is a more modern and complex professional saw, or the MS391 which is the similar-sized consumer saw. My preference was for the 036, as it is a simpler design than the MS361, and more durable and repairable than the MS391.

Huztl non-genuine kits

Through watching youtube videos about chainsaw repair, I discovered the recently emerged option of buying a kit of “Complete repair parts”: a full set of non-genuine chainsaw parts, which can be built into a working chainsaw. The principle source of these kits is (a name appparently made from “Husqvarna” and “Stihl”), who sell a huge range of non-genuine parts, mostly branded as “Farmertec”.
For anyone repairing their own chainsaws (or brushcutters etc.), the Huztl web shop is astonishing in its scope and its prices. The accessibility alone is revolutionary: Stihl parts are difficult to find without walking into a genuine Stihl dealer’s shop – you can’t browse or price parts online. The Huztl site has huge catalogues of parts listed with photos, viewable by chainsaw model.
The quality of parts sold by Huztl will take some time to discover. Some parts are clearly fine because they work from new, e.g. clutch covers, carburettors, bolts. Some will be quick to evaluate: chains, bars. Some, however, will take some time to be confident in: pistons, cylinders, crankshafts, bearings, seals. If the quality of Huztl parts is good enough (and I am so far happy), it offers a great resource to backyard chainsaw mechanics. The question of quality and durability is fundamental to my writing this entry, so I will try to report as well as I can on my experiences over time.

Ordering the 036 kit

The Huztl 036 kit is astonishingly cheap: mine cost about AU$300 delivered, plus bar and chain for another ~$25 (a new Stihl MS361 is listed at about AU$1600). I made the mistake of ordering parts for other chainsaws, along with the 036 kit, which meant we had some troubles working out what was what – most parts are not labelled. The kit does not include bar or chain, so I ordered these as well from Huztl. Currently the shortest 3/8” bar they sell is 18”, which is longer than I want, so I made a project of cutting an 18” bar from Huztl down to about 14”, see my post on this here.
I ordered a couple T-handled T27 tools with my kit. This is the main tool needed for tightening bolts. I also bought a Huztl crankcase splitter tool, in case we made a mistake and needed to open the crankcase. I bought a flywheel puller (2 in 1) tool, to make it easier to remove the flywheel in case of crankshaft seal trouble.
I also ordered some extra gaskets for the crankcase and cylinder, and some spare crankshaft seals. These seemed at significant risk of damage during assembly - we did need to replace one crankshaft seal we damaged while assembling the crankcase.

Assembling the 036 kit

Unboxing the parts on the kitchen table
Nearly all the assembly was done by our son Jasper, who couldn’t keep his hands off it. There are no instructions at all, and almost no labels on the parts. Luckily our neighbour and friend had a Stihl 036 we could borrow to look at and to exchange parts. Most importantly there is a rich resource of youtube videos specifically on how to assemble these kits.
Here are the videos we found most useful:
Afleetcommand’s 036 assembly series
Part 1:

Part 2:
Matthew Olson’s “bolt by bolt” 036 assembly series:
There were some other youtube videos on assembling the crankcase which were helpful, mostly found by searching for Huztl. As, well, I liked Andy Reynolds’ chainsaw repair series on youtube, which share some of his accumulated experience with chainsaw maintenance.
For most of these saw kits, construction begins with assembling the crankcase. For us, this was the only difficult bit. We used our wood-burning cooking stove to heat the 2 shells, and used a wooden mallet from our woodwork shop to make adjustments. We damaged a crankcase seal on the clutch side, but it wasn’t difficult to replace (for crankcase seal replacement see With heat, patience, and a wooden mallet, it isn’t too hard.
036 coming together on the kitchen table
Once the crankcase is assembled, it’s just a matter of bolting everything else together.
The Huztl 036 - without an 036 label on the flywheel cover - otherwise looks just like any other 036

Carby troubles

Once assembled, I filled the fuel and oil, and adjusted the carby jet screws to 1 turn from closed (the standard startup setting). I was able to start the saw and run it at high revs, but I couldn’t get it to idle. There was clearly a problem with low speed mixture: adjusting the low-speed jet seemed to make no difference. After doing a crankcase pressure/vacuum test to see if we had damaged a gasket or crankshaft seal, I tried swapping carbies with our neighbour’s genuine Stihl 036. With a genuine carby the saw worked perfectly.
Huztl promptly sent a replacement carby once I sent photos of the non-working part. The new carby worked perfectly.
During the first few hours of use, I found the idle speed variable. Tilting the saw on its side would drop the idle speed and sometimes stall it. Again I worried about crankcase vacuum leaks (I’ve had some bad experiences…). I then realised that the idle speed ajustment screw wasn’t changing the idle speed. Looking closely, I could see that the throttle connection wire (from the plastic throttle finger lever to the carby) was a fraction too long, so the throttle butterfly lever wasn’t sitting on the idle ajustment screw. After I removed, slightly bent and re-installed the wire, idle speed was fully adjustable.

Using the Huztl 036

Once carby problems were sorted, the Huztl 036 worked like a brand new Stihl. Compared to other cheap chainsaws, it has the advantage of Stihl’s excellent design. The 036 is a really good saw for my work, lighter than the Stihl 038 and MS381 that we have used a lot over the last 20 years, but still powerful and having the 3/8 pitch chain advantages.
Once the saw was working, I attached a cheap digital hour meter. This adds up the run time, so I can add up the short runs that are usual for chainsaws.
Here's the digital hour meter on the cylinder cover. A wire from the meter wraps around the spark plug lead
So far it’s done 10 hours, which is actually a lot of chainsawing: several days in the forest. It’s been a mix of long, light work thinning cypress (soft wood, small diameters) and hard, continuous, full throttle cutting dead stringybarks into firewood blocks. Nothing has broken or failed, and I’m very happy with the saw.
The 036 working in the cypress thickets

Is the Huztl 036 any good?

So far, I’m very happy with the Huztl 036. It’s fair to say it’s seriously changed my understanding of chainsaws.
The first advantage is that we needed to put it together. My son and I learnt a lot from making it: once you put a machine together like that, it is never a complete mystery again. We know every part, and feel confident that we can deal with mechanical problems.
Easy, low cost access to a complete range of parts for these kit chainsaws, that appear to be of good-enough quality, is also pretty revolutionary for chainsaw users like me. It stops chainsaws being throw-away consumer goods when there is a breakage or failure – not necessarily because genuine parts aren’t available, but the cost of genuine parts and dealer labour is often too big a risk for an old saw which might have other problems. If a saw you made yourself wears out a piston and cylinder, and the parts cost AU$30 to replace and you have confidence to do it yourself; then that saw is likely to be repaired and work on. 
Remember that the low money cost of these parts is balanced by the need to be your own mechanic and do some quality control for yourself. It’s very different from stopping off at the Stihl dealer and picking up a new saw that is immediately ready for work. If you do buy these parts, be ready to take the time to check the parts, put things together carefully and if needed, to ask for replacements.